Even More Happy Drinking
Stewart Dawes, Adam Frontier and Jane Louise review a selection of
this season's best new wines ...Stomp! 2009 Rosé
At the recent Food and Wine Aficionados festival I met Meredith McManus from Stomp! Wine in the Hunter Valley. After years of making wine for other labels, Meredith and Michael McManus have stepped (stomped?) out with their own label and they’re clearly onto something, with James Halliday rating their first two wines with four wine glasses each. I won’t be surprised when their Stomp! 2009 Rosé gets the same response. While the Stomp! Wine website says their Rosé is perfect with just about any food, I have to admit I didn’t get as far as pairing it with food when I shared it with friends recently - fortunately it's just as perfect on its own. In my eagerness I discovered the difference between ‘cold’ and ‘chilled’ – leaving the Rosé out of the fridge for a while makes all the difference, allowing the summer berry flavours to burst over the tongue. As one of my friends commented appreciatively, ‘it’s a lovely Saturday afternoon drop’. Another friend decided that Stomp! 2009 Rosé ‘matches the sunset’, and on that warm afternoon it did feel that way. I’ll get straight to the point - grab a fabulously summery Stomp! 2009 Rosé for your next picnic or barbeque, and you won’t be disappointed
http://www.stompwine.com.au - Review by Jane Louise.
Robyn Drayton 2007 Hunter Classic Verdelho Liqueur (White Port)
At the recent 2009 Hunter/Central Coast Food and Wine showcase in New South Wales Parliament House, there were a plethora of absolutely amazing wines from the Hunter and Central Coast region. This area has an excellent reputation for a very good reason. So amazing, I’m almost surprised any stood out at all! Yet some managed the feat.
One of the stand-out wines of which managed to grab my attention was the 2007 Hunter Classic Verdelho Liqueur (white port) from Robyn Drayton Wines. I was seduced by the packaging from the start - a gorgeous square glass decanter with the logo subtly printed on the front … but you’re here about the wine itself, right?
Robyn Drayton Wines has been a family-run business since 1853, and has many, many awards and trophies to their name. Of this most enticing new drop they say, “harvested on the 22nd January, 2007 our estate grown Hunter Valley Verdelho grape has been fortified with an eight-year-old Australian brandy to create a unique fruit-driven white port.”
I found it sweet without overpowering, and strong without leaving me gasping for breath. In my mind – perfect! It gives port a new, fresh approach as it’s much easier to drink. I’d always had the impression that port was an old man’s drink, but not any longer.
This white port goes well with many types of cheeses (I have to recommend the Hunter Belle cheese (sold through www.cheesepleese.com.au) for the complete Hunter experience), but for a real wow factor when entertaining, try this: serve the Hunter Classic Verdelho Liqueur in a martini glass with a scoop of pear gelato and a twist of lime. Otherwise, as the bottle recommends, serve over crushed ice with a twist of lime in summer, or on its own at room temperature in the winter.
This is a truly versatile port, one I’ll be bringing out to impress guests … if I don’t drink it myself first.
www.robyndraytonwines.com.au review by Jane Louise.Ballabourneen ‘b’ Sparkling Rose and Sparkling Chardonnay
Also at the 2009 Hunter Valley and Central Coast Food and Wine Showcase, up-and-coming Ballabourneen (pronounced Balla-bour-neen) appeared as another of the stand-out wine makers of an area known for its wine. A boutique winery located in Pokolbin, they passionately produce a full range of high quality red, white and sparkling wines for all seasons and tastes.
Ballabourneen might be a mouthful, but as they say, it’s a mouthful worth savouring. Ballabourneen is the result of merging the talents of vigneron Alex Stuart and aspiring young winemaker Daniel Binet (a finalist in Australia Wine Society’s “Young Winemaker of the Year” awards, and nominee for Hunter Valley’s “Rising Star Winemaker”).
If you were anywhere within earshot of me on the evening of the showcase, you’d know I couldn’t get enough of Ballabourneen’s ‘b’ sparkling rose. Light (perfect for any time of day) and tasting of strawberries, it spelled ‘Style’ with a capital ‘S’.
I was also delighted with Ballabourneen’s ‘b’ sparkling chardonnay. Crisp and fresh, with the first sip reminiscent of green apples, I have no choice but to sound like a wine-tasting snob! But that is exactly how it was. Just the right amount of sweetness, with a clean aftertaste - leaving me far too keen to empty my glass!
No matter what our experience with wine, we know what we like when we taste it. Ballabourneen wine is one of those ranges where your taste buds are left shouting for more.www.ballabourneen.com.au review by Jane Louise.
Yellow Tail Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2008
It was a blistering, hot Saturday. The air was thick with dry ribbons of heat, and my air-conditioning unit was attempting a futile fight against the rising temperatures. There was only one thing that could salvage my weekend, a chilled bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. After pouring myself a healthy glass and partaking of this clear nectar, I was surprised to discover that a wine so kind to my coin purse could be so palatable. Each gulp was light and citrusy, while offering my tongue the slightest hints of passionfruit and pineapple. This Sauvignon didn't go down as smooth as many of its contemporaries, but it presented a nice dry end to each refreshing sip. I foresee this bottle being part of my next hefty meal at the Glebe Fish Market where I can already envision pairing it with a nice slab of snapper swimming in cracked peppercorns and butter. Bliss on a hot summer day. For more info check out www.yellowtailwines.com.au - review by Cat Juan.
Zoffman's Chambo
A couple of years ago I accepted that my beer-drinking days were over due to a gluten-intolerance. So I took up wine-drinking with gusto and had a lot of hard catching up to do. Along the way, taste-testing but never spitting, I found that I liked champagne, but that one glass turned me into a giddy fool and more than one meant I was, well, anyone's. Meanwhile red wine, I loved the taste but it had the dulling effect of making me drowsy. Not much point if I'm hanging out with friends as the conversation diminishes and the yawns set in. Happily then I stumbled upon "sparkling shiraz" one night and noticed that I liked the red-wine taste but that the bubbles kept me alert while only mildly giddy. Quickly I became the sort of guy who would turn up to Christmas lunch with half a dozen of this variety - as a guru of red bubbly I became notorious. Yet I'm even more joyous now, folks, since I recently discovered the sparkling red Chambourcin produced by Rik Zoffman of Dayleswood Vineyard (from the Riverina region). This easy-to-quaff "Chambo" (just pronounce it "Sham-boh" with a suitably ocker drawl) is rich & flavoursome yet smooth and elegant on the palate. Basically this is a sparkling burgundy from Chambourcin grapes - and is perfect for outdoor parties or any social occasion - always served deeply chilled of course! And indeed they have a great special on at present, a half-doz for just $99 if ordered from their website: www.chambo.com.au
- review by Stewart Dawes.
Shiraz 2006 & Shiraz Grenache 2007 Energised Wines
If you've become one of those new age electro-magnetic pendant-wearing types as I have since my latest trip to the Mind Body Spirit expo, then these may be the wines for you. Not only are they certified organic, but they're "energised". Best matched with equally-energising snacks like Yumi's Beetroot Dip, spicy pumpkin, cracked pepper water biscuits, or soft-shell crab -and if looking to match with music try Stereophonics' Handbags & Gladrags, Morcheeba or the more acoustic end of Radiohead. Seeking something extra-progressive in the certified organic wine market? These wines are the first available that have been passed through an Ecovortex=B unit. Not easy to know exactly what this does, but according to vigneron Antonio Palena, the process enhances the smooth palate and full flavour of these classic varieties, grown in the golden mile region of Barmera, South Australia. Both are very low in sulphur which means asthmatics are unlikely to be affected. However both wines do have the preservative 220 added. And as for the taste - light-bodied, fruity, Italian-style. Shrunken brain types might snigger about how they need a splash'a Red Bull to make these reds more energised, but for people who prefer to expand their consciousness while expanding their palate, they're both uplifting companions. Apparently it's also spiritually okay to perform yoga or meditation after having a drop or two of these wines, which from my point of view is a massive bonus. Is this the world's first "enlightened wine"? For more info contact the winemaker via: (08) 8588 1147. - review by Stewart Dawes.
Rosnay 2005 Cowra Region Cabernet Sauvignon
This is not the Duran Duran of cab sauv. Or the Orchestral Manouvres in the Dark of reds. It's The Smiths. Representing us, the common people, new-agey but closely related to Joe the Plumber. While Morrissey wails "This Charming Man" above the most infectious guitar riff ever written by co-songwriter Johnny Marr, we urban hippies have found a wine that is not quite the VB of wines everywhere, but the Tooheys New of wines. Or to keep in with the Australian-ness of vigneron Sam Statham, musically-speaking it's the Cold Chisel of New South Wales wines. Authentic, pure rock, deep plum red, ready for action. The bonus is that it's organically grown. May not mean much to your average electrician, but it sure is better for them. Or for American drinkers, pull out your Joe Satriani CDs and kick back. Are you Japanese? Well, I dunno, listen to Shonen Knife on Youtube while quaffing elegantly in Toko Sushi Bar or Makoto maybe? The point is ... slurs thoughts ... oh yeah, this wine will appeal to any nationality from any continent. If you're African, think Miriam Makeba, defiant, progressive and full of heart ... and good for the heart too - that's the beauty of reds. So get off the beer and onto something a bit more becoming. www.rosnaywines.com.au
- review by Stewart Dawes.We're currently collating Summer Drinking wine reviews - if you're a winemaker or a
distributor and you'd like your wines reviewed on this page email wine writer John Hartigan via editor@sydneycafes.com.auEverybody Needs Good Neighbours
Confused about imported wines? At least these ones have the least "food miles"
and therefore are good for the environment. Non-AFL coach ("I'm a chick, actually")
Lee Matthews and career drunk Stewart Dawes review a selection of New Zealand's
best new wines ...MOUNT ROSA 2005 PINOT NOIR
Central Otago’s Gibbston Valley has become synonymous with producing some
of the world’s most unique pinot noir. Located at the eastern end of this valley is
Mt Rosa, a legendary merino sheep station and one of the largest wine producers
in this dynamic region. Mt Rosa’s vineyards produce a range of wines including
the region’s flagship, pinot noir. This is a perfect cafe wine: dried herbs, thyme,
oregano, redcurrant and bramble aromatics, a warm rich round mouth feel and
an elegant soft finish. The night we got stuck into it, we found an amazing affinity
between this pinot and salt and pepper prawns! Terms like cheerful, very
quaffable, and thoroughly chuck-it-downable flowed off our happy tongues.
www.mtrosa.co.nzGIESEN "THE BROTHERS" MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007
Bondi's Beach Road Hotel may not be highest turret on the urban map as far as its
wine collection goes, but when a disillusioned Melbourne actress friend decided to
move up to Sydney last year, we found ourselves regularly sampling their wine list due
to the fact it was the watering hole closest to her apartment ... and also that in the middle
of winter it's pretty much the only place in Bondi that's guaranteed open. The actress
stayed in Sydney about a year before a Frenchman stole her away to live in Marseilles,
but in that time she latched herself onto the Giesen Sauv Blanc as pretty well the best
wine on the Beach Road Hotel's list - and truth be known we took pretty keen interest in it
also. The intrigue deepened when we discovered a more upscale Giesen, also a Sauv
Blanc but a savvy bling-bling version of the drop we'd already admired. This flashier
version is known as "The Brothers", and they're the kind of brothers who you would
want getting you into trouble. This wine is representative of the season's premium
grapes and displays lifted, ripe and pure sauvignon blanc characteristics. Intense
aromas of sweet gooseberry and tropical paw-paw blend with complex, pungent
sweaty notes and a touch of herbaceousness. Succulent palate, elegant structure, as
we say in this country, "it's all good, mate". And as for the actress, as the bishop
said, thanks for the tip-off darlin'.
www.giesen.co.nzRICHMOND PLAINS NELSON PINOT NOIR 2004
What a dreamy drop!! It achieves all you would ask of a New
Zealand pinot, having that divine warm leatherette texture on first bite.
And so it sails on, made with organic grapes which somehow lend a
minerally elegance - the kind of earthiness which is inherent in the very
finest Atlantic Salmon. They reckon it's the stony soils of their vineyard, we're
just tremoring for our organic vigneron pals here in Oz who, for all their great
work, may not wish for such a challenge to their progressive niche to be
heralded on this website. Ah well, what can we say? We already liked
New Zealand wine, so if we can have it certified organic as well, we're
gonna roll over and let those kiwis scratch our collective tummies.
www.organicwines.co.nzMOUNT ROSA 2006 RIESLING
This graceful riesling just gets better by the glass. We could finally give away our
inclinations past semillon and into verdelho and return to riesling forever if they're
all like this. Savoured it over a few nights, first casually with roasted wasabi green peas,
then over salmon sashimi while listening to David Sylvian during the latter days of his
Japan phase, and finally on a fine cheese night soaked with Malcolm McLaren's "Jazz
is Paris" irresistibly romantic album - 'twas truly di-vine (no vine pun intended) all the
way. Mount Rosa pride themselves on delivering instinctive, handcrafted wines
born of New Zealand's breathtaking Central Otago high country. Once prime merino
territory, the rugged slopes of Mount Rosa (4500 ft), now nurture their specialist
cool climate vineyards. Elegant yet spunky, smooth and very fresh, close to and in
fact may be the best riesling we've ever had.
www.mtrosa.co.nzASTROLABE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006
First sip is a slap of impudence - cheeky and fruity, says our inner west
friend who visits for the chance of some free piss. He's a debonair chap
from Albany, WA, who has stooped to working for the Daily Telegraph, but
it's a step up from early adulthood working as a croupier. It settles into a
nice aftertaste with a hint of berries, he adds, suddenly lapsing into the
laconic belief that his contributions to the wine review are done. We demand
one more lunge at meaning from our mate, but all he can add is that it goes
beautifully with the Japanese squid crackers we're munching between
mouthfuls. Winemaker Simon Waghorn deserves better than this, as he's
delivered a very praiseworthy drop, which shows maturity beyond its months
(it's a 2006 wine after all). We're already dedicated converts to the freshness
and quality of New Zealand whites, so a Sav-Blank from Marlborough
is heaven's gate material for me. The 04/05 versions of this have already
won 11 trophies, say no more.
www.astrolabewines.co.nzAMOR-BENDALL GISBORNE CHARDONNAY 2004
What Beez Neez is to beer, the Amor Bendall 2004 Gisborne is to chardonnay.
A dominant honey overtone greets us on first encounter, a slippery almost
treacle-rich greeting. Originally started like most Kiwi projects in the shed,
Amor-Bendall has now matured into a serious wine producer concentrating on the
very best grape varieties in the Gisborne region. A fresh vibrant wine displaying
varietal characters of peach and pineapple. The palate is rich and
mouth-filling with exceptional length. The accent is on ripe fruit characters
providing a wine to complement most dishes.
www.amor-bendall.co.nzWe're currently collating NZ wine reviews - if you're a NZ winemaker or a
distributor and want your NZ wines reviewed on this page
email Adam Frontier via editor@sydneycafes.com.au(FOR OUR ORGANIC WINES OF AUSTRALIA
PAGE, CLICK HERE ....)
+ OK, here's all you ever need to know about white wine:viognier - best
riesling - used to be worst, now 2nd best
verdelho - made a strong case for best, but then lost the plot
semillon - used to be best, but lost out to verdelho about 12 months ago
sauvignon blanc - a good sensible standard across the board esp if from New Zealand
chardonnay - absolute shitPREVIOUSLY REVIEWED WINES ......
BROKEN GATE HEATHCOTE SHIRAZ 2003
Usually we're terribly biased here at Sydneycafes.com.au against
anything that comes out of Victoria. It's not that we're state-ist, it's just a
response to the fact that they think they're better than us! The fact that some
of our more dynamic buddies are actually currently moving from Melbourne to
Sydney will not tempt us to comment further, except to say that once in a while,
we can transcend our general distaste for Victorian wines and be very
pleasantly surprised by the encounter. Such has it been with this excellent
shiraz, and our view is shared by everybody's favourite wine companion
James Halliday, who noted the "clean raspberry, cherry & blackberry fruits; some
spice; subtle oak, fine tannins; true finesse" in giving it 90/100. A muscular palate,
with the nose exuding black plum and prune with a strong hint of savoury
licorice. Lovely deep opaque rich purple colour too. They recommend you drink it
in 2011 - too late, we devoured it in 2007 with pure delight. $19.95
www.brokengate.com.auJANE MOSS MARGARET RIVER SEMILLON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006
A pleasant, feminine label may give a first impression that Jane Moss is going
to be a wallflower of the wine world. Graceful, but nothing to get passionate about.
Well the four red-blooded males who partook of Jane on a recent picnic in Sydney's
Nielsen Park were stunned by her elegance and complexity. This is a wine to
quietly fall in love with, and a few have - judging by the gold already awarded in the
Peter Forrestal 'Quaff' 2007 edition. Even the notes on the label are unassuming:
"Sauvignon blanc contributes beautiful fresh aromatics of sweet herbs and
tropical fruit. The semillon fills out the palate with rich flavours of herb and spice.
The two varieties have historically proven to complement each other."
Charmingly humble statement which masks the mystique emanating from
within, Jane Moss is well worth taking on a second picnic. $22.00
www.mossbrothers.com.auCHATEAU LEAMON CABERNET SAUVIGNON CABERNET FRANC MERLOT 2004
Some blends end up being far too much of a mouthful - and remembering or
pronouncing the full name of this drop may be beyond anyone who has gone beyond
that first mouthful. But what a mouthful! Seduction is the verb we should add
to all those nouns. Silky smooth deep red in colour with a beautiful lifted minty
cabernet bouquet which has been complemented with 12 months of maturation
in French oak barriques. The palate is rich and full with great length and flavour,
think smoky, think chocolately, think sour plum meets wildberry. The label is
classical and rustic, typically Victorian as it's out of historic Bendigo, while at
15% alc/vol, this is a wine to solidly befriend - and to share with quality friends.
Can be enjoyed now but will improve with further maturation.
Drink now thru 'til 2014. $26.00+
www.chateauleamon.com.auCOPE-WILLIAMS ROMSEY BRUT METHODE CHAMPENOISE
As an Aussie of 30 years who suddenly becomes a Pom whenever the
Ashes occur, I mistakenly thought I had something big time to celebrate when
new recruit Monty Panesar was belatedly brought into the team and proceeded to
claim five wickets on his first day of the Perth 2006 test. Glued to the telly, I drafted
in a mate who had finally realised that having his beloved Aussies lose a match
or two might be "good for the game". Keen to seduce him into supporting Monty's
heroics even further, I cracked this Macedon Ranges sparkling - and the two of us were
in heaven. The great Shane Warne lost his wicket to Monty, and we were bubbling
over with enthusiasm. The Romsey Brut matched the occasion brilliantly as my buddy
declared, "this is truly a five-wicket-haul bottle of bubbly". A blend of very slow
ripening Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with often a substantial proportion of reserve
wine to ensure that the authentic house style of Cope-Williams is maintained
year after year, this is one of the most delicious bruts on the market. Of course
the Brits lost that test as well as the rest five-zip. Thanks God for good
wine that can lift any occasion. $39.00
www.cope-williams.com.auAUSTRALIAN ORGANIC WINES
Robinvale Wines Demeter 2005 Auslese Lexia
Robinvale Wines have been operating since 1976, and for many years when people thought organic wine, they were the first brand, and sometimes the only brand, that spilled out of people's mouths. Now there are so many new organic wine producers in Australia, it's good to see that Robinvale aren't resting on their laurels, but continue to be innovative, leading the way with interesting new varieties. First out of the case, we decided to chill their 2005 Auslese Lexia Sweet White, and once out of the fridge it didn't last long. This is just so drinkable, very enjoyable, it tastes of fun and not taking life too seriously. This luscious drop's palate features ripe and delicious tropical fruit with honeyed muscat characters. Suitable for vegans and vegetarians, it's non-cloying and balanced with fine cleansing acid. As a Certified Demeter Biodynamic wine, it's been produced using environmentally friendly, ecologically safe biological methods to activate and nurture the life of the soil, without the use of artificial or synthetic chemical pesticides, fungicides, weedicides, fertilisers and other unnecessary additives. That's fantastic of course - and in this case, even better, because it's a tasty aromatic drop and a very accessible way to begin a journey into the healthy realm of organic viticulture.
www.organicwines.com.au
Captains Creek Organic Wines 2001 Chardonnay
This family-owned and operated vineyard in Daylesford, Victoria produces hand-crafted premium quality certified organic wines from the Burgundian grape varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Their 2001 chardonnay has a gorgeous, fresh taste with hints of honeydew melons and cashew nuts persisting within subtle but classy oak characters. Barrel fermented with natural malolactic fermentation, it's a full-bodied, well-balanced wine with great intensity. No chemical additives are used throughout the wine-making and the essential preservative sulphur dioxide has been kept to a minimum.
www.captainscreek.com
Kalleske Wines 2004 Clarry`s Barossa Red
In South Australia`s celebrated Barossa Valley, the Kalleske family have been farming and growing grapes since the 1800s. A blend of Grenache (80%) and Shiraz (20%), this is one of the best organic reds we`ve tasted. Already critically acclaimed, this rich ripe fruity drop has a quality of density which makes it a delicious delight to appreciate, with very soft tannins but an overall muscularity to the shiraz. The nose shows uplifting aromas of ripe raspberry, cloves and sweet spice, an appetising prelude to a delightfully mouthwatering genuine family estate wine.
www.kalleske.com
Pig In The House 2004 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon
We just LOVE the mantra of the good couple who produce the
Pig in the House wines, Jason and Rebecca O'Dea: "our ultimate desire
is to live in a chemical-free, sustainable environment producing wine that reflects
where we live and what we believe in ... converting to organic production was
the right thing to do for us, the environment, those who consume our
produce, and future generations". A wonderful vision, and the hard work
behind that quest has well and truly come up with the goods: just 98 cases
from a 15-acre vineyard outside Cowra in the lovely Central Ranges of
New South Wales. This Cab Sauv has aromas of stewed berries, with a full, rich
palate of wild berry, soft tannins and a long earthy finish.
www.ploughandladle.com.auPig In The House 2005 Organic Shiraz
And where does the name come from? The vineyard was originally
home to 20 free-range pigs! Now if you're a sangiovese-kid, as in one of those
Eastern Suburbs types who has long-since expunged your taste for shiraz,
having upgraded your wine-snob sensibility to grenache, mourvedre, zinfandel,
durif, dolcetto and barbera, among others, this organic shiraz is the best
reason yet to return to this classic 150-year-old variety. Indeed it's a bloody
Australian thing to do, since shiraz is only from here and the
Rhone Valley - so grilling fish, having pasta or roast vegies?
Then this Pig in the House organic shiraz is 100% "new directions".
'Cos buddy if the word "organic"ain't appearing in your imbibement-boasts,
you're slipping not just into wine history, but into over-chemicalised obsolescence.
And the varietal plum, cherries and hint of American oak which accentuate
the harmonious finish of this quite delightful shiraz make it well worth seeking out
for reasons hedonistic rather than just health.
www.ploughandladle.com.auShiraz Energised Wine by Antonio Palena
Looking for something even more progressive in the certified organic wine market?
This wine is unique in that it's the first wine available that has been passed
through an Ecovortex=B unit. Hard to tell exactly what this does, but according
to vigneron Antonio Palena, it enhances the smooth palate and full flavour
of this classic variety, which has been grown in the golden mile region
of Barmera in South Australia. It is very low in sulphur which means that
asthmatics who are very sensitive to sulphur are unlikely to be affected.
And as for the taste - a very nice drop! Light-bodied, fruity, Italian style.
For more information contact the winemaker via: (08) 8588 1147.Thistle Hill Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
It's taken a while to review this one as we had a big night thanks to the generous contributions of the crew at Thistle Hill, which meant we lost our tasting notes! Created in the picturesque Erudgere Valley, ten k's down the road from Mudgee, this Cab Sauv has a bouquet of plum, ripe berries and sweet American oak. Good complex palate with plum, spice and tobacco flavours from the dedicated hands of winemaker David Robertson. In the end we went out and bought another batch of these wines to review a second time. Had a bloody good time all over again! Recommended to drink anywhere from 2005-2010.
www.thistlehill.com.auRosnay Triple Blend 2003
Mint and spearmint aromas - and a soft plum palate finishing with solid but supple tannins. The wine was partially matured in old oak barrels for 12 months, and is also very low in sulfur, with just 11 parts per million free sulfur. But, we hear you ask, is it any good? On this deeply plum red, Rosnay Wines have sailed a flavoursome course into the stratosphere. What a ripper drop! This red could become the flagship of the Australian organic wine industry. Three cheers for family-owned boutique wineries ... drink now for enjoyment, or watch this one improve for the next five years.
www.rosnaywines.com.auHapps Preservative-Free White 2004
Plain, straightforward, easy drinking white wine, great for a picnic, poolside or day at the beach. This is not a “bodice ripper,” think Fragonard, spring meadows, stolen kisses, some light fooling around, nothing heavy. Great stuff from the Margaret River appellation, this PF White is made from chardonnay. The wine is entirely tank-fermented. It is soft and generous in its flavours in line with winemaker Erl Happ's personal preference. The lack of preservatives is testimony to careful wine creation. Ronnie and Meghan liked it very much while Adrian prefers his drink a bit more complex.
www.happs.com.au
To have your wines reviewed on this page, click here.Temple Bruer Organic Chenin Blanc 2004
More texture, gooseberry, tart and then sweet, wonderful flavours, fresh and citrusy, great length of flavour, lively and lifted. Perfect for a light lunch, a really beautifully made wine. You can tell the winemakers are paying close attention and it shows up in the glass. Good to drink over the next 2 to 3 years and we all loved it. Later, after we had finished our wine tasting, this is one of the bottles that ended up on our table for lunch.
www.templebruer.com.au
Lark Hill Riesling 2004
Sweet beginning, herby nose, lemon and citrus, well made, clean, dry and quite refreshing. A good wine, rather delicate, with a long finish, not too dry, not too sweet. Very drinkable. Lark Hill makes their wines in an environmentally-friendly way from old growth (over 25 years) low-yielding vines with a minimum of additives. This wine is ready to drink right now.
www.larkhillwine.com.au
Carlei Green Vineyards Biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Creamy, woolly sort of smell, dry, clean with also a citrus smell and long finish. Well made. This Sauvignon Blanc is made in the French style and not only is it 100% organic it is biodynamically grown as well! The wine maker, Sergio Carlei, a lovely bear of a man, is passionate about wine and is eager to convert all who cross his path. When we met, on a late autumn afternoon in The Rocks, there was more than the whiff of Bacchus about him. His hands were stained purple from the recent crush and he spoke energetically about producing biodynamically “living” wine.
www.carlei.com.au
Botobolar Organic Riesling 2004
Woody, very sweet when you first put it in your mouth, long finish of pears and apples, crisp, clean fruit and citrusy flavour, well balanced, stands out with good flavour, a bit of preserved lemon on the palate as well, with plenty of character. Botobolar is completely organic with some added sulphur dioxide to help preservation. Sulphur dioxide was first used by the Romans to preserve wine and we have been using it ever since. Botobolar has been a pioneer in organic and preservative-free winemaking in Australia.To have your wines reviewed on this page, click here.
Cardinia Hills Organic Pinot Noir 2001
Pinot Noir is one of the Holy Grails of winemaking and it really tests the limits of the winemaker. It’s a difficult grape to capture in the bottle and I’ve tasted plenty of weak, watery ones along with a few that will caress you like a lover while delivering a deep, lingering kiss. Cardinia Hills Pinot Noir has a lovely dark cherry smell, a light red wine with a bit of tobacco flavour about it, and overall a very pleasant drink. Meghan prefers her
Pinot Noir to be more along the lines of the pinots of The Russian River Valley in Sonoma County in Northern California: more deep dark chocolate with hints of coffee and sweet cherries and the voluptuous feel of velvet in the mouth (you get the picture, delicious sex in a glass …). Sergio Carlei looks more to the traditional French Pinots in that they deliver the goods from a more nuanced, delicate, acidic perspective. The major complaint about this particular wine was not what was in the bottle but what was on it, namely, what’s with the date on the label? First, it’s not on the front, it’s on the back and we couldn’t figure out what the graphic artist was trying to do. Please, for us “label” drinkers, make it easy for us to figure out what year we’re drinking! Admittedly, after a glass or two the only part of our brains that was functioning was the reptilian.
Temple Bruer Organic Cabernet Merlot 2001
Rich nose, beautiful deep colour, high tannins taste, this is a strong wine and would be best with rich foods. Another lovely wine from Temple Bruer. We felt this would be a good wine to put away for a bit and take out later. As Ronnie suggests: buy some now and each year drink a bottle to find out when it reaches perfection. Sounds like a great idea ...
www.templebruer.com.au
Happs Preservative-Free Red 2004
Plummy smell, rich dark colour and taste, lots going on as far as complexity and with a nice soft, almost furry, sensation in the mouth. A big red and anyone who likes the Barossa style of wine will love this one. Super friendly, a big, warm, huggable wine that will treat you like your best mate, good on ya! We thought this was just delicious. We also took this one to lunch, where, as we recall, Meghan drank most of it. Buy plenty now and enjoy it with your friends, they’ll love you for it. Ronnie thought this would age well too. Just a reminder, preservative-free does not mean hangover/headache-free, as Meghan can attest to.To have your wines reviewed on this page, click here.
Organic Vignerons Australia
Mataro/Shiraz/Grenache 2003 Bin 621
A very palatable bottle of wine from a collective of grape growers formed in 2002. The organic mataro was grown by B&S Armstrong at Waikerie, organic shiraz grown by the Markou family at Gawler River and the organic grenache grown by Brett Munchenberg at Loxton. Combined, this blend is a full-bodied,soft finish dry red. Mixed berries dominate the nose with mulberry and plum flavours. Sweet fruit aromas and flavours dominate the nose and palate of this wine. It will enhance the flavour of a wide variety of Mediterranean dishes. A dash of American oak finishes off a thoroughly delectable concoction with screw cap closure chosen for quality reasons.
www.ova.com.au
Organic Vignerons Australia
2004 Rose Grenache Viognier
Organic Grenache and Viognier from Temple Bruer vineyards at Langhorne Creek and Brett Munchenberg at Loxton have combined to create this dry rosé. The nose displays mixed fresh berries, which along with stonefruit dominate the crisp finish on the palate of this wine. Only organically registered allowable inputs are used at all stages of the growing and processing of this wine. Served chilled, this wine is great accompanying poultry or pasta. However it is easily enjoyable by itself.
www.ova.com.au
Organic Vignerons Australia
2003 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon
A deep red-purple colour, vanilla and berries on the nose and great fruit with full, soft tannins on the palate indicate a long-lived wine. This wine is not preservative-free but the sulphur levels are about one-third of traditional reds. A silver medal at the Riverland Wine Show 2003 (class 23 Dry Red) and a bronze medal at the Melbourne Wine Show 2002 (class 23 Dry Red) point to the potential of this blend. Excellent accompaniment to
full-flavoured steak dishes.
www.ova.com.au
Carlei Green Vineyards Organic Shiraz 2001
Red fruit, rich with sweet spice and brown spice tastes in a big, rich, generous tasting wine, really delicious with a long lingering flavour. We all thought this was really super tasting and we happily took it to lunch. Adrian liked this wine very much, so much in fact he took the empty bottle home with him! He thought this would be a great wine to drink right now and Ronnie thought he could drink this wine all day long! Australia and Shiraz,
truly a match made by Bacchus himself! ‘nuff said!
www.carlei.com.auABOUT THE REVIEWERS
Adrian Read, former editor of Australian Gourmet, former consultant to Penfolds and other wineries and now with his own direct marketing wine business, The Adrian Read Selections (wineman@bigpond.net.au).
Ronnie Stricke grew up in a wine cellar in South Africa and now happily helps clients put together their own; he advises customers on which wines go with what foods and is wine consultant to Karen McLeod, owner of the premier event planning company, Celebrity Blonde, in Sydney.
Meghan Williams started drinking wine at an early age "at my late grandfather’s table in California and the wines we drank were usually French and usually a Grand Cru. My grandfather was a founding member of the Beverly Hills Wine and Food Society, in California, and is the only man I have ever known who had French crystal Baccarat Romanee Conti wine glasses in multiples of 12 and used them! Basically I am a “label drinker”, which means I find a winemaker/vineyard I like and then buy more of it. Of course, like so many, I am more than a little star-struck at the fabulous wines being made in Australia and am gleefully getting to know some big Aussie reds and cool whites!"Stewart Dawes works for Nova Magazine as well as being original instigator of the Sydneycafes.com.au website.
ORGANICS LINKS
Further Information:
The Organic Wine Website http://www.organicwine.com.au
National Assoc for Sustainable Agriculture Australia http://www.nasaa.com.au
The Clean Food Guide www.cleanfood.com.au
EcoShop http://www.ecoshop.com.auRELEVANT HEALTH LINKS
NSW Coeliac Society http://www.nswcoeliac.org.au
SOME GENERAL WINE LINKS
www.plantagenetwines.com
www.cellarmasters.com.au
www.winecountry.com.au
www.simongilbertwines.com.au
www.evansandtate.com.au
Us