When Splash Seafood & Mediterranean Cuisine opened simply as Splash Cafe two
years ago, we were fortunate enough to review them at that time. Lucky also were our
friends and readers, who picked up the ultra-positive vibe of the review - many of whom
have been regulars ever since. Diners have been so frequent - despite the hot competition
on Newtown's King Street - that the Splash team, headed by Jordan Jordanou in the kitchen,
has recently been able to renovate and become a licensed venue at the same time.
Splash Restaurant's interior is now so transformed that some regulars have been
thinking they've accidentally walked into the wrong place. Gone is the gaudy take-away
fish & chip shop frontage, replaced instead by an elevated dining platform which will accomodate
groups of two up to eight people. Across from this attractive mini-mezzanine is now the full
glory of a bar resplendent with every alcoholic beverage you could wish to consume
when on a seafood adventure. But that's the other thing - the Splash people ain't just
seafood specialists anymore - they're still wowing their fans with the freshest and most
generous underwater dishes in (New)town, but they've also crawled out of the deep
blue to match any landlubber's desires.
We'd still advise anyone visiting Splash for the first time to take the plunge into the dishes
that have put them on the map over the last two years: you'd be crazy to miss their
Tasmanian Scallops Mornay (see photo above), to quote Sydney band The Herd we're talking
"scallops with dollops" of more-ish molten cheesy juice all neatly baked hard on top,
and stunningly served four-to-a-plate in their shells! Not just delicious, this entree will fill
the needs of a delicate eater - thankfully those with hardier hungers will feel slightly
satisfied and yet inspired by the flavours to await their mains with elevated relish.
Hardiest hungers of all will likely take up the challenge of tackling the Splash Hot
& Cold Platter For Two - it's a feast which negates any need for entree or dessert - you
have been warned. It's a magnificent double-deckered display, a palatial platter, a spectacular
selection - that is also strangely fitting in the newly renovated Splash - because this place is
so much less a cafe and so much more a romantic candle-lit restaurant, so that sharing
this indulgent seafood pyramid becomes rich with the symbolism of togetherness - if you can
complete this culinary journey hand-in-hand you really do have the strength to pay off
a Sydney mortgage and still be harmonic in the twilight of your years.
But on the night we decided to review Splash Restaurant, nee Splash Cafe, we knew
the direction of our souls. My dining companion fixed her heart on the Brandy Perch,
marinated in mustard, brandy, garlic, dill and oregano, and served with chips or rice
and salad. After her superb and sizeable BBQ Baby Octopus entree, this filled every final
crevice, making dessert theoretical. Of course I sampled a few forkfuls and the highlight
was that hint of mustard. Since when did mustard and fish become buddies and
why didn't anyone tell me?
It's my joy to cut the edges of culinary trends and so, with many repeat visits to Splash
to my advantage, I was happy to beach myself upon their new offerings "from the land".
Ironic perhaps that their terrestrial dishes come in the form of "Mediterranean" cuisine - 'cos
the Mediterranean is, after all, an ocean, but I promise not to venture any more dumb thoughts
like this - they come from a space where Splash's semillon was starting to kick in. They have
three varieties of semillon on their wine list, and I'm a sucker for this trendy refreshment anytime.
So it was that I dealt with their Chicken Cacciatore - napolitana sauce mixed with onion,
capsicum, olives & tomato over a grilled chicken breast - in the most appropriate way possible,
destroying every particle, but unable to finish the accompanying rice. Next time it may be the
Chicken Fungi, or the Steak & Mushroom, or maybe even a pasta or risotto. Or am I deluding myself?
Will these dishes just be handy for taking out all those poor souls who suffer seafood allergies,
knowing that they're more than catered for, while I plunge and swim happily among oysters,
or their Lobster Mornay, or a Coriander Barramundi, a Thai Salmon or a Teriyaki Tuna?
But then again, I haven't mentioned the Lobster Devine - lobster medallions with king prawns,
Tasmanian scallops in a cream sauce topped with tasty cheese with chips or rice
- a man (or woman) will have his (or her) biases!
With the brilliantly friendly Sav Jordanou (the original Jordanou's son) as maitre-d
(what's the Greek-Cypriot translation of this word?), along with Sav's cousin Billie (she's
a girl, as fate would have it) matching the warmth of the welcome, you'll do well to allow
yourself at minimum a couple of hours at Splash - 'cos time will fly. With plenty of options on
the menu, Splash is no longer one-dimensional - you can still BYO (wine only), you can explore
their weekly specials, and you can even try Cyprian wines, or finish the night off with a Cyprian
port after dessert - which if you've had an entree and a main, you'll very likely have to share.
Splash started out making little ripples, but the place has grown up fast
- in its licensed 'adult' stage, it's the bomb ... dive right in.
|
