Australia, your wine cellars can now be organic ...
As the quality of the Australian organic wine scene continues
to improve, Rosnay Wines from the Cowra wine region, 330km west
of Sydney, are no exception. Close enough to Orange for winter
views of snow-capped peaks, and low enough in the foothills to
guarantee excellent ripening and flavour development, Rosnay is
now offering a wide range of certified organic wines and other
products, which we review this month ...
But first of all, lets recap our organic conversation.
Like the related word "organism", the word "organic"
implies a holistic view of the farm ecosystem as one cyclic and
living being. Like a forest, the decomposition of plant and animal
litter builds rich humus, which in turn captures more rainwater
and supplies plants with all the micronutrients they need through
the microbial breakdown of bedrock. This contrasts with the "modern"
view of farming as "in one end and out the other", converting
chemical fertilisers and pesticides into food using soil simply
as a holding medium. With little microbial life surviving this
system, few trace elements are broken down from the bedrock, and
the plants become deficient in key micronutrients, such as boron,
zinc and molybdenum.
And of course, which approach produces the best
wine? Try some organic wine and find out, because unless the winemaking
is faulty (a common thing in the past, due to the low permitted
sulfur levels) the organic wine will be more expressive, vibrant
and earthy than its polished and homogenous "chemical cousins".
Besides taste, the health
benefits of organic food are known well enough ... Higher anti-oxidants
and trace minerals due to the non-use of artificial supports such
as water soluble fertilisers, pesticides and fungicides. The environmental
benefits are obvious - less chemicals in the environment and reduced
exposure of rural workers and their families. In Australia, the
demonstrated increase in soil carbon resulting organic farming
is seen as an opportunity to reduce our greenhouse emissions.
Globally, the UN sees organic farming as a way for developing
countries to develop their rural economies.
It was in 1997 that the Statham family at Canowindra
first investigated organic farming, and by the end of that year
they were practicing it. Rosnay is a family business whose success
is in the team mix: Richard, former agribusiness manager, banker
and farmer, son of a doctor and organic gardener. Florence - who
moved here from France and is the gastronomic and artistic powerhouse
behind both the flavours and the labels of Rosnay ... Sam, the
eldest son who was "contaminated" with organic ideas
while travelling in New Zealand a decade ago ... And Oliver, the
youngest sibling with the most dedication to organic food of anyone
I know, a unique and honest approach to marketing and also a talented
musician (see www.olistatham.com).
Rosnay Products - The New, the Improving, the Wacky and
the Bold
The New - Cabernet Sauvignon
In September last year Rosnay launched a straight Cabernet Sauvignon
for the very first time. From a region which is best known for
its whites, specifically Chardonnay, and with noted potential
for great Cabernet-Shiraz, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is a bold
move. The fruit, obviously well ripened due to the absence of
unripe "green" tannins (with givaway flavours such as
capsicum), is vinified with elegance and finesse, rather than
overpowering flavour and American-oak. Whilst still a little short
in the palate and young of age, this wine has a dusty aroma and
earthy flavours which in the style of lighter French Bordeaux
gives character. Not cloaked in oak, the secondary aromas and
terroir are as important as the fruit to the overall enjoyment.
The Improving - Semillon
Next have a look at the Rosnay 2005 Semillon, successor to the
2004 Semillon which I found disappointing. Here we have improvement...
At last year's Australia-New Zealand Organic Wine Show, the 2005
Semillon was in the tasteoff for best wine, and was the best performing
of the 7 Rosnay wines entered, of which six received medals. Max
Allen wrote it up as the best white wine ever produced by Rosnay,
and I recommend you try it.
The Wacky - Rose
Not that there is anything truly traditional about Rosé,
except that it was usually made by “bleeding off”
the juice of the red grapes in order to concentrate the colour
from the skins into the remaining juice, and to make the remaining
red wine more intense in colour. The result of this is often that
a certain amount of hard, herbaceous tannin is still found in
the pink juice, which can only be concealed or balanced by making
the wine sweet. Perhaps this explains the abundance of sweet Rosé
on the market, at good prices. The Rosnay Rose, in contrast, meets
the modern consumers desire for a dry wine which is cleansing,
refreshing, crisp and fruity ¯ and rounded but not sweet.
I dont know what the varieties used are for the Rosnay Rose, but
over the last two years this wine has been very popular and sold
out within six months, so I look forward to the release of the
2007 Rose in July-August.
The Bold - Olive Paste
Available through Gershgoods, the Rosnay olive paste is made from
the ripest, darkest organic kalamata olives, hand graded from
the Rosnay fruit bottled and sold in brine. Made with absolute
simplicity, as a simple olive puree with a dash of vinegar and
either herbs (thyme and rosemary) or chili, this product is so
versatile that it can be used every day. From olive paste on toast
and croutons, to olive paste in pasta sauce, to olive paste in
seafood jus or rolled in filo pastry with herbs and parmesan cheese
to make "Pasties"... Seek out this bold olive flavour
experience and use your imagination. Without anchovies or capers,
it's not a tapenade - but you can make that yourself too!
To order wines or paste for your cafe, bar or restaurant
click onto www.rosnay.com.au
or call (02) 6344 3215 Fax: (02) 6344 3229 Email: sales@rosnay.com.au
