The Grumpy Baker


Cafe of the Month
December 2002


Cuisine:

Gourmet Pastries


Address:
151
Oxford St
Surry Hills


Phone:
(02) 9380 4177

Hours:
Seven Days
Sun-Thurs 6am-late
Fri-Sat 24 Hours

Considering the hours that bakers work, it's reasonable to allow them a modicum of grumpiness. So it was with trepidation that we approached Oxford Street's The Grumpy Baker, especially when a first glance reveals a tough-looking tattooed chap with a shock of Billy Idol-type hair. Grumpy and a punk too - scarey stuff! But an initial salutation allayed all terrors, as co-owner Gino, the peroxide punk, turned out to be an amiable if extremely eclectic fellow. His accent is straight out of Scotland, but his name ... Gino???? Turns out he admits to being Italian, which is great news as he also admits to being the barista, not the baker. As the co-owner, it's no wonder he's always there, keeping a dedicated eye on the baked-on-premise delights such as the scrumptiously juicy muffins, the hand-made gourmet breads (with flavours such as choc-chips with banana, sour cherry, coffee and walnut, or pumpkin and poppy seed), the sambusaks (Israeli-style pitta bread with fetta, olives and spinach), the chocolate croissants (white choc or dark), the pastries, the pies, the cakes, the milkshakes, the iced coffees, the granitas, and, according to Gino, the "best coffee on Oxford Street or your money back". The place is like a lolly shop for adults, open 24 hours on the weekend (generous hours as well as generous serves), the analogy only frayed because their savoury stuff hits the spot too - we tried the potato and rosemary boreka - and the Bulgarian fetta cheese boreka - on first visit and knew we'd be back for more. And more on Gino? His accent may be "straight" outta Edinburgh, but that's possibly the only "straight" thing about him. The man is sure to be an Oxford Street foodie legend.

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