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Writer Sonja Vilek is a bit biased about Czech food by virtue of her
nationality,
but perhaps she's better qualified than most to herald King Wenceslas'
cuisine ...
Singing
the praises of Prague
Czech Beer Restaurant has to be the highlight of my culinary expeditions
in 2005.
My dining partners and myself met up one mid-week winter's night at
about 8:30pm expecting to visit a quiet restaurant, but, as I found
when I first dined here in November last year – just barely a
month after Prague Restaurant opened – it was very busy.
If you've experienced Austro-Germanic dining and enjoyed it, then this
will blow you away.
Prague Restaurant brings Sydney the culinary heritage of the Hapsburg
Dynasty (rulers of love, not rulers of the sword): from its divine little
entrance, intentionally located in a side laneway like taverns in Prague,
to the interior design, (including the staircase and the curved renaissance
cornices!), to the succulent duck served with dumplings on your plate.
The owners spent 18 months renovating an old terrace nestled on leafy
Kellet Street until their toiling satisfied their expectations of opening
a truly authentic restaurant - without quite being able to bring red
trams and snowflakes from Prague itself.
Two floors of dining, plus a front street terrace with gas heating and
back courtyard. Upstairs, the dining is more casual, and downstairs,
more formal. At the bar, there are several mini-tables and benches made
from the lids of beer barrels. Here you can have a light snack –
like a potato pancake and beer. This is where the Czech students love
to eat – it’s a cheaper option and very relaxed.
In the corner sits an upright piano – occasionally local customers
come to play a tune or two after their meals. This is really a place
where if you come back a few times, you're treated like an extended
family member and you become part-Czech (one day you start experiencing
strange cravings for sauerkraut with your beer - then you know).
The Crowd:
Since my first dining exprience at Prague Café in November last
year, when the crowd consisted of mostly Czechs, Slovaks, French, Hungarian
and European diners, there has been a noticeable shift in diners.
On a Saturday night (you need to book a week ahead) there are a mixture
of Euro diners of all ages, and 20-35s from many different backgrounds.
There are of course the Czech students that are regulars (combating
some homesickness with a Pilsner in one hand and duck drumstick in the
other), and this is great to see, as it's time that Sydneysiders were
formally introduced to the world of Czech beers (voted best in the world
for the last three consecutive years) in an atmosphere of lush foods
and great service.
The Service:
Ivan the head waiter (pictured), is the star of the show and is at your
disposal. Multilingual, knowledgeable with impeccable manners –
actually all the staff constitute a highly professional team, well dressed
and working hard to make sure you enjoy the ultimate dining experience.
If you're unfamiliar with the cuisine, the staff will be only too happy
to assist you, choosing a beer that will complement your dish (order
some beer with your dinner, forget the wine just for once!!!). If
you're after fine dining – this is where you receive professional
5-star service, for a 2-3 star price.
The
Menu:
Or shall we say, ‘menus’ - as there appears to be menus
catering for the conservative person, the meat lover, the beer enthusiast,
vegetarians and those going for real Czech dining. Because this is a
unique restarant that successfully caters for the casual diner, lovers
of good tea and coffee, beer-buffs, good wine, elegant dining, romantic
dining and dining for those on a bit of a budget too.
The Budget Option:
For
those on a real budget here are just some of the combinations under
$13:
Beer ($4.40) +
hearty soup, and bread (6.50) = $10.90
Or
Potato Pancakes($7.90) = $12.30
Or
Veal Sausage ($8.50) = $ 12.90
The
Safe Option:
more
conservative types who are too staid to try food that King Wenceslas
enjoyed:
$30.00 and under for 2 courses:
Entrée: (All entrees under $10.00)
Prague Ham rolls ($7.50) or
(Sliced Norweigian Smoked Salmon ($9.50) or
…maybe the Soup of the Day won’t scare you too much! ($6.50)
We had Lentil ...
Mains:
Hunter Schnitzel with mushroom sauce and Potato Mash $19.50 or
Smoked Pork Ribs ($17.80) or
Cordon Bleu ($19.50) or
Grilled Eggplant with Spinach, Potato mash and salad ($14.90) or
Variety of grilled meats served on skewers with French fries ($19.50)
The
Feast!!!:
For those who will sit at good King Wencelas’ table and enjoy
the true luxury of Czechosovakian cuisine at its finest:
From $24.50 to $35.00 for two courses.
Entrée:
Soup of the Day ($6.50) or
Fried crumbed mushrooms with Blue vein cheese ($8.50) or
Spicy Meat Sandwiches with melted cheese ($7.90).
Mains;
My favourite is the Golden Roast Duck served with white and red cabbage
and bread dumplings ($19.90) or
Juicy Roast Pork Knuckle, served on a wooden board ($16.50)
Bohemian Party Dish ($22.90) - the people at the other table beckoned
us to try this one, and glad we did!
Fried
Crumbed Edam Cheese with homemade tartar sauce - this is my vegetarian
favourite, great for cheese lovers ($15.90)
And Finally, The Beer:
Ahh,
the beer! The most important of all (well, not really but as I am not
traditionally a beer drinker, it says something when I say it is better
than wine). The Czechs are undoubtedly the best producers of beer in
the world, and if you are to buy imported Czech beer from an liquor
shop you may squint at the cost.
Not at Prague Restaurant, however! The owners import the beer directly
- therefore reducing the cost when you order it with your food. Here
$4.40 buys you the original Pilsner or for $4.90 you get half a litre
of Dark Kozel.
Now here’s a little secret. A good way to tell cheap beer from
the good stuff - the better the beer, the better it tastes as it warms
up! I can’t believe I am saying it, but I had two beer drinkers
with me who were initially perturbed when informed by the waiter that
the beers are chilled at 10 Degrees Celsius. We tried three types of
beer – Gambrius, Kozel and Krusovice dark ale, and our tastebuds
just sang!
Czech beer is the beer of kings, poets and Czech writers like Kafka
and Kundera who enjoyed it on a cold winters night. I know you will
too, any time of the year.
Text
by Sonja Vilek / Photos by Peter
Borbely
prague cafe sydney cafes in kings cross dining
in potts point
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