Dov at Delectica Potts Point Sydney
Cafe of the Month April 2009
Potts Point, Modern Australian, Casual Cafe Dining
Address: 130 Victoria St Potts Point NSW 2011
Phone: (02) 9368 0600
Hours: Weekdays from 7am, Dinner Wed-Sat 6pm-late,
Sun
8.30am-3pm
Dov Cafe has for years been one of the best cafes in Sydney's inner east. We first reviewed it in their original Darlinghurst location back in 2002 and declared it in the best 5 cafes around. Then when they were forced to move to Potts Point we figured that was a great excuse for another bout of delicious dining and we noted the food was even better than before. Finally we popped in one rainy night a few months back and were so blown away by the latest menu that we found an excuse for a third review - we realised Dov Cafe occupies extremely rarified Sydney culinary territory - it's a fine-dining experience disguised as a casual cafe.
As we said back in 2006, Potts Point's reputation as a hub of quality cafes went through the roof - as locals were soon delighting in the many pleasures of "Dov at Delectica" as the team dubbed Dov Mach 2. Now with head chef Dru Woolnough leading the way, yet still the original owners Ursi, Kate and Matt floating around keeping everything lovingly friendly and perfect, there's new dishes to write about, and also the atmosphere - cool yet funkily accepting in daylight hours, at night it's a fetchingly romantic place. There's some metaphysical vibe about that makes you feel great to be there - it's stark and urbane on the one hand, yet darkly love in action.
Love of food, love of people. And of all the things that could make this red-blooded carnivoristic scribe melt, get set to laugh fellow foodophiles: the best meat pie ever. As I tucked in I was having flashbacks to the first time I ever consumed a meat pie, as an 11-year-old immigrant in the Adelaide Hills being inducted into a rainy game of AFL football. How good it tasted, contrasted against the chilly winter showers. Little did I know that this oft-derided Aussie icon would end up reified as chef Woolnough's "Red Wine Marinated Aged Beef and Vegetable Pie with Gravy" ($18). This time around, this king of all pies had the most delicate pastry in the known universe, and was one of the smoothest sailing journeys my palate has ever taken. Grown blokes might weep in the presence of such common tucker elevated to tasty royalty.
At the more leafy end of the scale, equally shimmering on the foodie horizon was my encounter with the "Marinated Artichoke Salad with Baby Spinach, Green Beans and Crispy Bacon" ($13.50). There's a hint in its tone of good old Caesar salads, yet with a confidently futuristic melding of ingredients it led me to exclaim to the waitress, "that's the best salad I've ever had!". Why not spread a bit of cheer, but only ever if you mean it? And if you're vegetarian, just order this salad sans the bacon.
Stunningly delicious food, yet nothing over 25 bucks. What a great concept, and so rarely imitated. Other mains to lavish praise on are the "Veal and Ricotta Meat Balls on Pappardelle Pasta in Tomato Sauce" ($19) and the "Pan-roasted Blue Eyed Cod with Roast Tomato, Kalamata Olives and picked Basil Salad" ($25).
You can hire Dov at Delectica for dinner functions from just $34 per person, they also have a range of changing Dinner Specials eg expect to enjoy Duck Confit and other exotic delights, while they're not ashamed to raise the luxury dessert bar with the Pear & Almond Frangipane with Creme Anglaise ($9) or their much-adored Dov Passionfruit "Light" Cheesecake ($9) - plus a wide range of Dov Cakes and Nice ice-creams & sorbets (just $2.60 per scoop) to round out the joy.
Also one of the great things about Dov-by-night (and day for people unlike me who can sip the vine early) is their great value quality wine list - it's smallish but the point is you know every wine has been through their impeccable selection process so whatever variety it is, it's the best for its price. Or you can still BYO for $3.50 a bottle ... but we haven't even touched on the Breakfast or Lunch menus, think Eggs Benedict for the former and their legendary Dov Chicken Salad as among many highlights on the latter.
For a quick fix? Between 5pm-7pm Wednesdays to Saturdays, meals are just $10. Between 3pm-7pm coffee & cake is just $5 combined, and on Mon-Fri take-away Allpress coffee is just two-bucks-sixty. And wireless internet is free from 7am-7pm. See you there again soon ...
- Stewart Dawes
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